Limerick

Tuesday, 6th of September. This whole place Tarbert seems to go south. Lots of shops are closed but don't say anything about this fact. They look just like normal shops from outside. Most traffic comes from the crossing vehicles which are only passing through. I was still looking for an internet connection – no chance in this village, although there had been an internet café some time before (even some of the locals didn't know it was closed). The friendly woman in the pharmacy gave me the advise to go to Glin, because there in the library would be a internet computer for free, so I started to cycle six kilometres in the direction of Limerick – and what nice people I found there! This library is just lovely. A small old stone built house, and inside mainly just one open room, some books and games (probably less books as we have at our home, and definitely less games…) and two nice computers. The friendly librarian was so broad-minded to my needs and so interested in my touring and blogging, it was such a nice and warm atmosphere and it was fun to talk a while. Many thanks!

Meanwhile Kate and Dave had send their address data. When the library closed at 2 P.M. I started speed cycling up to Limerick – I had an average of 24,3 km/h from the moment I started cycling this day until I reached Limerick (nearly 60 kilometres). During the cycling I wondered why I felt so very warm, and then I realized the sun had shown up again! This day was still a mixture of clouds, rain and sun, but it's so exhilarant when its clear, warm and bright. And I even had following wind from time to time.

I arrived early at Kate's and Dave's home. Kate was doing her home made felt clothes and accessory. She is a freelancer and all around the house you can see lots of different pieces in varied designs. While she went on working, Dave showed me around the town – Limerick by night. As a real cyclist I tried to turn on my light, as we left the house… (whithout having a bycicle between my legs, I bent forward to activate the dynamo —does anyone remember The third policeman by Flan O'Brian?)

Dave knows a lot about history stuff, but for me the contemporary image of this town was much more interesting. I wasn't so sure about if it would be worth it to come to this place. Some people said it's uninteresting, others (non locals) liked it. The reputation of this town isn't so good (mainly caused by some trouble in the 80's). Now I'm glad about deciding to come to Limerick, because it's not so typical (or what I would call typical from my previous experience). Its character seems to be much more used and industrial. And inside of this some very old churches and castles…

Dave and I ended up in a nice pub (their local), where to my big surprise he ordered a German wheat beer. He definitely has to come to Bamberg and taste all our local wheat beers, which are so much better then all these industrial beers from the big companies. I went on trying new brands of stout. We had some good talk about profession, contentedness, self-fulfillment and the need for sabbaticals. We found some parallels between our relationships in the fact that one can give the other one the freedom to be creative without financial bounds. My head and my heart are still mulling over what I like or want to do or to be or don't like or want to do or to be… Moments of insight and scruple take turns.

I also spend one day resting. Doing some improvements on the bike, install the new light and so on. Because of some troubles with the electricity a very nice electrician was in Kate's and Dave's house who gave me some useful material to make the grips softer. All at all just nice and relaxing. Nevertheless it was once again 4 A.M. when I ended writing and working on the computer…

The amazing cyclist did a new record in long distance cycling!

Tuesday, 30th of August. I did a new record in long distance cycling: 167.5 kilometres – this maybe could be not only a long distance record for this tour but also in my cycling history, but I'm not sure about that. The first 50 kilometres I cycled the N 25 road up to Cork, not that much interesting because of the street's character, but I did extremely fast cycling! I had an average of 23.6 km/h (that's most likely also my personal record in general related to long(er) distance average). And even at the end of the day I still had an average of 19 km/h. I don't want to boast, but this is nearly unbelievable to me, too. Altogether it took me 8 hours and 45 minutes pure cycling.

I had a nice break in Cork, sitting in a pub, drinking some cappuccino and eating yesterday's roll while discovering a new favourite band – Fleet Foxes – by listening to their Album Helplessness Blues. And I had also a nice talk with two man sitting next to me who were interested in my cycling (one of them is a journalist, so maybe I become popular now…)

When leaving Cork I lost my way, bound to the N 25, which cost me 10 extra kilometres at all. And the periodic hooting of the car drivers on this motorway like three lane road doesn't made it better. (We disagreed about how much space I was allowed to take.) When I finally found the R 600 the first five kilometres were heavy uphill, so it took me 65 kilometres until the landscape was enjoyable. This also meant it went to be hilly and I had advertise winds – which curiously affected only me. The plants, bushes and trees held it was windless.

Nearly the whole day it was cloudy (and thereby cool), and it looks surely funny when nevertheless I am wearing sun glasses because of wind protection – "It's dark twilight… and we're wearing sunglasses". This day it constantly happened that I thought to be slow and automatically changed down, to use the smallest of the three front sprocket, but was still ten km/h to fast for doing so.

After 112 kilometres I had and definitely needed a long break and some salty, warm things to eat. This exhausted feeling came all of a sudden over me. I found Grainne's Bar in Timoleague, which was quite the right choice (even though there hasn't been an alternative since the last ten kilometres…). This pub had been the Award Winner of Best Irish Traditional Pub as the Dining Pub of the Year 2001, 2004 and 2005. And Grainne is a really nice woman.

Back on my bike the sun came out. From Clonakity I called Marek, my host for this night (and also the next days). A nice butcher lady lent me her mobile phone (she offered it by herself, when I asked for a public phone – it's really not easy to find public telephones, but there are so much lovely people in this world…). Then it became dark outside.

Among Clonakity and Skippereen I cycled through some very dark areas. No lamps, no civilization, just my little bike light. Dark road, much darker trees and bushes surrounding me on both sides, the idea of a blurred light blue far away over the horizon. I felt I was cycling uphill, and later that I was in some height, but had no orientation at all (so I was unable to see signs, too). Kind of borderline experience. Very intensive, especially when you stop and listen to the silence and look at the stars. – So much stars! So bright! It kind of frightened me to stand in this absolute darkness.

There were also cars who passed respectively came towards me from time to time – and about 50 percent of them didn't turn off their driving beam … But it was nice how the lights of the cars behind me made the street's cat sights (placed in the road) reflecting, so you could see how the road turns. Among Skippereen and Baltimore it was once again just dark, but had another character. Smaller road, more winding, close to the sea (which I couldn't really see but feel), also some cold from the bottom and ground fog, that one could only see when a car was passing. And once again this unbelievable starry sky. So bright I could see the milky way, and all the stars appeared in three dimension – and I could also see the lines between the stars which make the constellations.

When I reached the border of Baltimore (without noticing) someone called my name, and out of the dark Marek appeared, who has waited for me after coming back from a meeting. It was 10:30 P.M. Walking through the night on a small path up to the little scruffy boat where Marek is living at a few months ago together with Anne, who is staying at this place for years. Food, warmth, harbour.

An all weathers day

Sunday, 21th of August. Yesterday I cycled 100 kilometres from Oxford up to Mitcheldean, that is close to Wales. It was an exhausting day, so today I stay for an extra day at my couchsurfing host's place, where a garden party will happen today. Deborah is preparing all the food while I am writing my blog on her computer (but I will also help her after writing…). It's just great here – great nature, great outlook, great garden and very great house with lots of personal design to discover.

I had an all weathers yesterday. It started with sunshine, so I was able to navigate by position of the sun (what I did also when I left London – and I did it pretty well!), then it went to be very cloudy and windy. I cycled A roads most of the day, which were really nice most of the time (mostly A40 road, then A436 when it splits up, and from Gloucester once again the A40 road. Then the very hilly part of that day's stage began when cycling the A4136 road).

Since I had left Oxford (and surely inside Oxford, too) in his area the people had (and of course still have) real stones at one's disposal to build houses. Therefore the main colour of the houses is a mixture of beige, ochre, grey and white. Very convenient. Once I cycled past a church with a sign in the front garden. While reading "an open meeting to discuss the future" I stopped, because it's a great idea and highly fascinating, to discuss the future (especially in a church). When reading the rest of the sign, it was only – but still – interesting, because it offers an insight into the actual proceedings.

I was in a bad mood during forenoon. Once again having no idea why am I doing this. Now it's kind of boring, just routine and somehow futile. Maybe this is normal change while doing long-run cycling. I didn't cycle more than two weeks without interruption before. But I also have a feeling of futile in general, about don't want to have any responsibilities at all and just doing nothing (especially no work). Then I think about quitting the tour. Otherwise I'm close to Ireland now, which is the main reason for this tour, and doing the French part of the tour will mean just going home. But I feel more and more depressed and desperate (close to cry while writing this). I am afraid about this, because I'm not able to classify.

It rained two times yesterday. But when I cycled the A4136 road the sun came out and also with the hilly landscape the route went to be much more challenging. This all together gave me a good feeling (good to know the surrounding can have such influence). When I claimed the main up-hill, the street stayed at this altitude while still doing some up and downs – and the outlook was just fantastic. And I had two great downhills with more than 60km/h (so now I have a new record with 62.4km/h). Then once again the rain came and at this time I was pretty exhausted. After five more kilometres I arrived at the lovely house of Deborah's.

It was a nice, relaxed evening. I tasted self made chocolate chilli ice-cream (the mild version), which was very interesting and the best chocolate ice I ever had. I went early to bed and slept quite long. Today it's a sunny day and I'm looking forward to see more of the surrounding area, to spend time with Deborah and meet new people at the garden party – once again I think it is good to have the guitar with me.

Deborah is very spirited, always laughing, she's – like me – so attached to little details to prettify the environment and to make the world a place where you can discover surprising, beautiful, interesting and special things all the time. It's good to be here.

PS:
I feel homesick and homeless and I really would need a long time hug and the possibility to cry while laying in ones arms.

PPS:
The garden party was very nice. Had some good talks and met much lovely people…

Up to London in just one day

Monday, 15h of August. Still no aching muscles, but I am pretty battered, as yesterday I cycled the whole distance Margate–London (Camden) all at once. Here is closest what Google maps is able to show about my route:


View Larger Map

Originally I planed this distance in two stages, but I lost my host in Gravesend, therefore I cycled through. From Margate to Herne Bay I cycled the lovely coast (hard to find a route as many paths used to end suddenly), then I tried the A2 for 10 kilometres, what started as a nice road (like German Landstrasse) and later changed its character into a motor road) , so I tried to find a route close to the sea, signposted (big problem, because signing was bad), and not being the A2 (most signs try to lead you back to A2). I started in Margate at 12 o'clock, reached London at 0 o'clock, but needed nearly 2 hours to find my route up to Camden and at least got help from my host Dagnis, who leaded me from Camden High Street up to his place.

All at all 150 kilometres – and the whole day constantly up and down – nobody had told me, that this area is so hilly! Because it was Sunday and I still wasn't able to change money or to find a bank and my fruit inventories were used up, I took al lot of sultanas from Allan's kitchen and found fortunately some apple trees during the cycling. I started cycling in a bad mood, thin-skinned and somehow depressed, hit shape rock bottom at 5 P.M., was no longer sure about why am I doing this – wherefore? Thought about going back home immediately because of losing sense and structure. Cycled extremely slow (my bike computer says, I still had an average of 15 km/h. Maybe it wasn't that bad as it felt) and cycled for 12 hours and 15 minutes this day.

Then I arrived at Dagnis' and Dagmara's home. And what a welcome. Dagnis had waited for me, even both had to go to work early the next day, actually Dagmara got up the bed, and both warmed up a delicious soup and prepared a slice of bread. So lovely! So unbelievable kind and helpful and generous! Surely, I was completely exhausted but still able to help myself, but the built me up with food and warmth. Thank you so much.

From Wartmannsroth up to Schlüchtern – and up to Gießen by train …

Tuesday, 2th of August. After Uwe and I have had some breakfast he offered me his computer for writing my blog and check messages – and therefore suddenly it was 2 o'clock P.M., when I left Wartmannsroth in Lower Franconia, Bavaria. (Trying to avoid this “suddenly time has gone”-thing is the reason, why it took some time till I went on with my blog. My apologize. In punishment of that I now have to write with a French keyboard…)

The weather wasn't just good – it was hot! From Wartmannsroth my way led me straight up to Völkersleier, a small village which is build on an inclined plane with probably a 45 degree angle – unable to cycle with all my luggage and very hard to push the bike, but no problem at all as I was fresh and unspent. And the day went on like this, as I cycled the Rhön Mountains area. I had some amazing downhill drive where I was able (and that means it was a calculable risk) to reach maximum speed over 60 km/h, but also some heavy uphill grades. But it was fun, and as I am cycling for the cycling (and also for the adventure) everything is just okay – come what may.

Next thing that came was a flat tyre. If your boyfriend says to you, you don't need a spare tyre on your tour, don't believe him like I did! The hole in my bicycle tube was a cleft, not easy to repair but I managed. But unexpected I was not able to inflate the tube. While I was still trying first a car stopped to offer some help, then two mountain bikers, who were also not able to inflate while using their own air pump, and at least a couple on a tandem-like bicycle (recumbent bike ahead and normal bike behind) and they fortunately had a air pump which worked. Many thanks to Britta and Wolfgang! – And also thanks for the nice conversation… Hope you are alright at your trip through Germany.

All things considered the mishap took me one hour and with all my hill caused slowness now it was close to evening. I decided to change to train, but in Stirbfritz (what a great name!) I would have had to wait for a long time, so I went on – pushing my bike on a high-angle road (7 or 8 degree the sign said), where I had to stop every five minutes gasping for breath. It was so exhausting I felt nausea. I was glad that the situation didn't depressed me but I had a bad conscience because of my couchsurfing host for this night. I want to be a better couchsurfer than I was able by this time. But I had called her and she was insightfully.

By and by I reached Schlüchtern (Hesse, Germany). The Schlüchtern people built the railway station outside the small town on top of a hill. And they build only stairs to reach the platforms. Once again, while seeing me, people offered help and while realizing the weight they didn't want to lower one's guard. (So I assume. It was really much weight.)

In the train I met another cyclist who was training for the Alpenmarathon. After a better change in Hanau I reached Gießen, where Susanne, my host for this night, picked me up at 9:30 P.M. and we went by car to her home in Hüttenstadt. I was her first chouchsurfer, but she had surfed several times during her trip to USA, she just had come back the night before and still felt the jet lag.

She welcomed me with a delicious chanterelle strudel and as I told her about the background of my journey, we had a good private talk about how to live, how to work and how to love, and the compromises we were willing or not willing to accept. For both of us our touring was about learning to be able to come in touch with own requirements and having the distance for getting new perspectives. All this felt so good. Thank you, Susanne for some time to bethink.

I cycled 42 kilometres that day. For some reason that's not that bad, I think …